It's Buenos Aires!
WEEK 1:
We arrived Sunday morning. Took a cab to our apartment in Palermo Soho -- yes, Soho.
Jordana and I have spent every day exploring. When we first arrived on a grey, cold day, and pulled up to our apartment, the area didn't remind me anything of Soho. It looked rundown, lots of garbege, buildings in disrepair, dog poo on the sidewalks, graffiti on the buildings, and auto repair shops two doors down.
But the next day, the sky was blue. The buildings looked rundown, still lots of garbage, even more dog poo and graffiti, but somehow it worked. We felt right at home. Even as we risked our lives crossing the narrow streets (no stop signs at intersections). Even when the only way we could get off the bus was to jump off (the bus only slows down -- no really stops). Even with huge cracks in the sidewalk that can swallow you up.
Palermo Soho is wonderful. Tons of small restaurants that only get busy after 11 p.m. Great little shops, where the salespeople have to buzz you in. It's not like Georgetown, with shop after shop and homes on the sidestreets. It's a patchwork of deserted buildings, fancy homes of every architectural style, alleys filled with graffiti, and wonderful places to eat and shop.
And the people -- like people everywhere -- are all very different. Some are lovely and friendly and adore talking with people who clearly are not Portenos; others who are kind've brass and in a rush to move on. One thing they all seem to have in common is amazing pride in their country and national identity. One thing that seems to be missing is anyone black. We have yet to see a black person anywhere.
In five days, we have found three amazing and different restaurants for dinner -- all in our neighborhood. We've tasted lots of Malbec, and already I have a favorite (Ruca Malen). And Jordana is inhaling the chocolate throughout the city. They'll be a shortage when we leave.
Oh, and did I mention the money? Prices are incredible here. You can see plays for between $3 and $7/person. Dinner -- amazing Argentinian steak with Malbec and a side dish and dessert -- $50 for 1 (or if you're wimps like Jordana and me and can't possibly eat the huge portions, then $50 for 2. Typically, far less. Really.
And the way they treat Jordana and me is hysterical. With her red hair and blue eyes, everyone assumes she knows no Spanish. They don't even try talking with her. Instead, they all start talking a mile a minute to me. I slowly say something and they suddenly realize I'm clueless. Then Jordana starts speaking in Spanish and they're stunned.
And no one thinks we're mother/daughter. They cannot get past our different coloring. These two guys kept talking to us and at one point I said, "she's my daughter" and they really thought I was bullshitting. Then, the one guy asked Jordana about her father and she said he's Irish. I didn't hear her and the other guy asked me what my husband's name was -- and trying to make it understandable to them -- I said "Miguel." They burst out laughing and were then positive I was making the whole thing up.
Tonight was fun too. As Jordana and I left a restaurant -- one of our new favorites -- a guy came running over and gave us his card. Said he's a photographer from Scotland, does fashion shoots and portraits, and said he loves Jordana's look and thinks she'd be perfect for a shoot he's doing this Wednesday. I did the mother thing and glared at him, drilled him, and made clear that I'd kill him if this were BS. He seemed to withstand it and actually appear legit. (I'll google him later of course). But Jordana would love to model some Argentinian designer's clothes and be professionally photographed at his studio in San Telmo, so we'll have to see!
Well, lots more to tell, but don't want to overdue. We are staying very busy. We went on an amazing three-hour tour with a historian who was terrific. We signed up for a cooking class with Teresita to learn to make empanadas. We're starting our tango lessons on Monday with Mora. And I'm taking a Spanish class on Monday afternoon with Gabriella. We've been to a South American art fair, the cemetary where Evita was buried, a zillion little shops, and MALBA, a new Latin American contemporary museum. Jordana's busy choosing which plays we'll go to and we've been switching to BA time -- dinner starting at 10 or 11, and drinks after that. We even went to a jazz club the other night but got there AFTER it closed. We were so proud of ourselves.
I can't tell you how happy I am that Jordana and I are having this amazing experience.
Jordana and I have spent every day exploring. When we first arrived on a grey, cold day, and pulled up to our apartment, the area didn't remind me anything of Soho. It looked rundown, lots of garbege, buildings in disrepair, dog poo on the sidewalks, graffiti on the buildings, and auto repair shops two doors down.
But the next day, the sky was blue. The buildings looked rundown, still lots of garbage, even more dog poo and graffiti, but somehow it worked. We felt right at home. Even as we risked our lives crossing the narrow streets (no stop signs at intersections). Even when the only way we could get off the bus was to jump off (the bus only slows down -- no really stops). Even with huge cracks in the sidewalk that can swallow you up.
Palermo Soho is wonderful. Tons of small restaurants that only get busy after 11 p.m. Great little shops, where the salespeople have to buzz you in. It's not like Georgetown, with shop after shop and homes on the sidestreets. It's a patchwork of deserted buildings, fancy homes of every architectural style, alleys filled with graffiti, and wonderful places to eat and shop.
And the people -- like people everywhere -- are all very different. Some are lovely and friendly and adore talking with people who clearly are not Portenos; others who are kind've brass and in a rush to move on. One thing they all seem to have in common is amazing pride in their country and national identity. One thing that seems to be missing is anyone black. We have yet to see a black person anywhere.
In five days, we have found three amazing and different restaurants for dinner -- all in our neighborhood. We've tasted lots of Malbec, and already I have a favorite (Ruca Malen). And Jordana is inhaling the chocolate throughout the city. They'll be a shortage when we leave.
Oh, and did I mention the money? Prices are incredible here. You can see plays for between $3 and $7/person. Dinner -- amazing Argentinian steak with Malbec and a side dish and dessert -- $50 for 1 (or if you're wimps like Jordana and me and can't possibly eat the huge portions, then $50 for 2. Typically, far less. Really.
And the way they treat Jordana and me is hysterical. With her red hair and blue eyes, everyone assumes she knows no Spanish. They don't even try talking with her. Instead, they all start talking a mile a minute to me. I slowly say something and they suddenly realize I'm clueless. Then Jordana starts speaking in Spanish and they're stunned.
And no one thinks we're mother/daughter. They cannot get past our different coloring. These two guys kept talking to us and at one point I said, "she's my daughter" and they really thought I was bullshitting. Then, the one guy asked Jordana about her father and she said he's Irish. I didn't hear her and the other guy asked me what my husband's name was -- and trying to make it understandable to them -- I said "Miguel." They burst out laughing and were then positive I was making the whole thing up.
Tonight was fun too. As Jordana and I left a restaurant -- one of our new favorites -- a guy came running over and gave us his card. Said he's a photographer from Scotland, does fashion shoots and portraits, and said he loves Jordana's look and thinks she'd be perfect for a shoot he's doing this Wednesday. I did the mother thing and glared at him, drilled him, and made clear that I'd kill him if this were BS. He seemed to withstand it and actually appear legit. (I'll google him later of course). But Jordana would love to model some Argentinian designer's clothes and be professionally photographed at his studio in San Telmo, so we'll have to see!
Well, lots more to tell, but don't want to overdue. We are staying very busy. We went on an amazing three-hour tour with a historian who was terrific. We signed up for a cooking class with Teresita to learn to make empanadas. We're starting our tango lessons on Monday with Mora. And I'm taking a Spanish class on Monday afternoon with Gabriella. We've been to a South American art fair, the cemetary where Evita was buried, a zillion little shops, and MALBA, a new Latin American contemporary museum. Jordana's busy choosing which plays we'll go to and we've been switching to BA time -- dinner starting at 10 or 11, and drinks after that. We even went to a jazz club the other night but got there AFTER it closed. We were so proud of ourselves.
I can't tell you how happy I am that Jordana and I are having this amazing experience.
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